Roses in `Cube' Major - Ethel Da Costa

If a collection has done all the talking, it has done just that! Made words inconsequential. And let its visual wizardry, technique, eye-popping colour and elegant exquisiteness speak for itself.

On a predictable Autumn palette of depth, complexity and textiles, this was Goa based Schulen Fernandes‘ tropical gust of fresh, youthful, Spring blowing with exuberance on the ramp of FDCI’s #AIFW write my essay.

Presenting her second collection for the Wendell Rodricks label at the Amazon India Fashion Week Autumn/Winter 2017-18, Schulen wowed us with her refreshingly creative, sharp and modern, expressive interpretation of a Rose in its new Cubist avatar of Art. Her garments were in full bloom in all their delicate fusion of colours, detail, accessories, sexy layers and fluid sophistication of silhouette. In sharp contrast to an otherwise done-and-dusted Autumn colour palette presented by other designers, this collection cut a striking, fresh foot forward. Bravo!

Schulen’s colour palette was a daring, enviable canvas of flaming pinks, reds, orange, purple, off set with silver and rose gold motifs (a current fashion trend all over the planet). Teal green, nude peach, pale blue were paired and contrasted on cut metallic leather blouses, layered with fabrics like georgette, satin and cotton silk. Winter nuances in its controlled subtle detail using Bemberg slub weaves, poly crinkle and hints of pashmina wool. Let’s be clear, there is NO winter in Goa, so definitely not for the faint of heart and seeking of heat!!

DECODE THE CUBE

The execution and application to cut and interpret the Cube as an art icon of style , and Wendell’s favourite geometry technique, must have been a nightmare. Playing volume juxtaposed against slim silhouettes, structured forms with fluid flow and a symphony of layer on layers (my favorite), Schulen introduced some innovation seen as petal collars, 3D elevated leather cutwork, and angled hems. Loved the earrings by Ayesha, shoes by Stoffa and neckpieces by Schulen.

The showstopper blouse itself boasted over hundred seams and layers to resemble a rose. But all that is new deserves its fair amount of wrecking nerves. The young Creative Head for Wendell Rodricks sails through this collection with maturity, a formidable cloud of calm, and wins. All along pushing the envelope for a unique, her own voice, play of architecture, structure and commentary.

Point in note were her jacket dresses – while the local current trend is shirt dresses.

The Menswear limited edition saw the rose motif as an embellishment, while staying strong on colour. The focus on functional utility, simplicity and comfort. Dig those lungi/dhoti trousers in purple!!